The untamed tendrils of the bougainvillea framed the sparkling waters and brilliant blue skies to perfection. It was another perfect Autumn day in south-east Queensland.
The day before the sky had been covered in grey clouds that threatened but didn't actually deliver rain, but they had disappeared overnight. There was a hint of chill in breeze as we waited for the water taxi and by the time we had made the half hour trip across to Dunwich on North Stradbroke Island, even that was disappearing.
Time seems to stand still on the island on a weekday - and yet the mainland hustle and bustle is less than an hour away if you include the drive to Point Lookout.
The setting for this glorious vista was the painted wooden deck of the landmark watering hole of the island, the Stradbroke Island Beach Hotel (known to locals as the Straddie Hotel at Point Lookout) Perched above Home Beach and overlooking South Passage to Moreton Island - Shag Rock in the foreground.
To many, the building is well past its use by date, but owners Jim and Judy Lally live in hope that one day they can transform their island home into a modern hotel and accommodation centre. Redevelopment aside, it's a million dollar site with million dollar views and it's easy to see why it is a favourite for both island residents and visitors.
However, the day was much too glorious for controversy so much better to sit back and enjoy idle conversation over a good cup of coffee and a homemade biscuit about the popularity of the island, as Judy lovingly points out a baby magpie and its mother searching for titbits in the garden, before showing off two swallows nesting above the bar.
“We've tried to move them a few times and each time they build a new nest - this one is practically a condominium,” she says as she points to a very elaborate mud construction on the wall near the door. "And if they get locked out at night they are particularly tetchy about it when we open up in the morning.”
This love of the island is something you'll find with most locals you meet as a visitor - from the small storeowners to the restaurateurs, residents and other local business operators.
It's a passion shared with the thousands of Brisbane people who regularly travel to the island for their breaks.
“We have families who have been coming here for generations,” says Heather Truman, Marketing Manager of Stradbroke Island Holidays, the holiday arm of Stradbroke Ferries.
“They came here when they had young families, their children continued to visit when they grew up and now these same people bring their grandchildren over here to share the holiday experience.”
“It's an island experience, but one where you have the chance to be part of the community for your holiday.”
Around 3,000 people live on Stradbroke Island and it appears most are there for the lifestyle. Word is that if the surf is up don't even think about calling for a tradesman - they'll all be out on their boards!
There are three settlements on North Stradbroke - Dunwich, Amity Point and Point Lookout. This particular daytrip was to the latter as this tends to be the major destination for visitors to the island, although Amity and Dunwich do have their share of fans.
Point Lookout is Queensland's most eastern point and in recent time has become particularly popular as a whale watching vantage point as the humpbacks make their way north to their breeding grounds between June and September.
There are five resorts at Point Lookout, each of which is strata-titled with on-site managers. The bulk of the accommodation is in private houses and units. Three real estate agents manage the holiday rentals, and Stradbroke Island Holidays work in with them to offer packaged holidays to the island including barge or ferry transfers, car hire, accommodation and so on.
While it's hard to beat the regulars to their favourite spots during Easter and Christmas, there is enough choice that you can find somewhere to stay with a bit of notice.
For those who prefer a more natural experience there are a number of excellent camping facilities on the island, but again, demand is high. Several Bed and Breakfast operators have now opened their doors; there is motel style accommodation available at the hotel and even a backpacker's hostel.
Access to Stradbroke is by water, and although the island is a true sand island, second only in size to its northern relation Fraser, sealed roads make access around the island easy.
Both water taxi and vehicular ferries run regular services between Dunwich and Cleveland, a bus meets every water taxi service to the island and a taxi service is also available.
Two companies offer transportation to the island - Sea Stradbroke, who moved their departure point from Redland Bay to Cleveland, and Stradbroke Ferries who this year celebrate 42 years of operation since beginning services to support sandmining operations on the island.
Upon arrival on Stradbroke don't expect a lot of shops - although there are small convenience stores, a butcher, fruit shop, deli and bakery. While Dunwich tends to be the business hub for the island with its hospital, police station, cemetery and other infrastructure, Point Lookout too has its share of businesses without taking away from the essential holiday appeal and beaches, cliffs and the sea.
There are a number of eating out options including the hotel, RSL and Bowls Clubs, a delicatessen and several restaurants including the Stonefish Café on the point above Deadman's Beach at Point Lookout. It's an ideal spot to enjoy fabulous food and wine while keeping a lookout for whales. Takeaway is also an option with fish and chips and pizza both available.
Whether it's for a day trip, a weekend or just a week or two, Point Lookout is well worth considering as a truly great holiday destination.
Getting there
Daily vehicle ferry and water taxi services operate daily from the end of Middle Street, Cleveland. Queensland Rail run regular train services to Cleveland station. There's a shuttle bus that runs between the station and ferry terminal.
For more information:
Stradbroke Tourism
http://www.stradbroketourism.com/
Tel +61 7 3409 9555
Stradbroke Island Holidays
http://www.stradbrokeholidays.com.au/
Tel +61 7 3821 0266
Fax: +61 7 3821 0299
Email: info@stradbrokeholidays.com.au
Shop 2 Raby Bay Harbour
152 Shore Street West (PO Box 1439)
Cleveland Qld 4163
Australia
Stradbroke Island Ferries
http://www.stradbrokeholidays.com.au/transport/main_transport.php
Tel +61 7 3286 2666