Spread across three states, this vast expanse of red desert covers approximately 170,000 square kilometres in Queensland, South Australia and the Northern Territory. Unlike the deserts you see in movies and cartoons though, this is not barren land with flowing sands. Rather, there is an abundance of hardy plant life throughout the Simpson Desert, able to thrive in the harshest of conditions while sparingly drinking the 130 millimetres of annual rainfall. Moreover, people have managed to survive in the desert for thousands of years, living off the plant life and the animals of the area. It is a land filled with fascinating sights and a rich history of Aboriginal culture and early overland explorers.
This article focuses on the sights of the Simpson Desert to be found in the Northern Territory.
Chamber’s Pillar
Towering 50 metres above the plains below, this pillar of sandstone acted as a message board for some of Australia’s early adventurers. During his first trek across the continent in 1860, John MacDouall Stuart named this magnificent natural structure after one of his sponsors, James Chambers. The pillar was later used as a way for overland explorers such as John Ross and Alfred Giles to communicate their arrivals, by carving their name and dates into the sandstone.
The pillar is also a site of Aboriginal significance, with the Dreamtime story of the Gecko ancestor Itirkawara being turned into the pillar after marrying the wrong girl. It is well worth the hour-long drive out to Chamber’s Pillar Historical Reserve to see this impressive sight and learn the fascinating story of Itirkawara.
Rainbow Valley
Head out in the early morning, or close to dusk, for a spellbinding view of sandstone bluffs and cliffs with streaks of colour reminiscent of rainbows. Caused by moisture dissolving and drawing red iron to the surface of the sandstone at varying rates, these streaks are especially beautiful when the sun is low in the sky, highlighting the rich colours. If you’re very lucky, there will be some water in the huge clay pan across from Rainbow Valley, allowing photos with a stunning reflection. These cliffs form part of the James Range and are accessible only by 4WD, however there are several tours available with expert guides.
Ewaninga Rock Carvings Conservation Reserve
Around 35km to the south of Alice Springs is a small reserve which boasts some of Australia’s most intriguing ancient history – the Ewaninga Rock Carvings. These petroglyphs, created by the early Arrernte people are considered so sacred that the Aboriginal elders who act as custodians to their history will not reveal their meaning to anyone who is not initiated into Aboriginal law. Photography of the petroglyphs is permitted, however, and the best lighting is generally in the early morning or late afternoon.
When to go
You’ll roast if you go during the summer, so your best bets are spring, autumn and winter. Spring and autumn are ideal – cooler temperatures, yet still warm enough to relax in shorts and sandals. Winter has lovely days but very crisp, cool nights and it can get wet – but this is especially good for photographing Rainbow Valley.
How to get there
If you don’t have a lot of time, your best bet is by air. There are regular flights from Australia’s major cities to Alice Springs, which is a great starting point for your Simpson Desert experience.
If you want to see Australia in all her beauty and vastness, consider taking a train. The Ghan leaves from Darwin and Adelaide a couple of times per week, and is a fun way to see the country. There are also daily coach trips to Alice Springs and Uluru from many cities and towns throughout Australia, but be warned – it’s a long drive!
Another option is to go with a tour – preferably one with a knowledgeable guide who can fill you in on some of the area’s history and wonders. Check out these
Central Australian tours.
Accommodation
The closest town to these desert attractions is Alice Springs, although you can also stay on a genuine working cattle station at
Erldunda. Check out the
TakeABreak Central Australian listings for an excellent variety of accommodation choices, as well as several tours (ranging from hours to days).
Ideal length of visit
A week is a reasonable length of time to experience the best of the Simpson Desert, including the main attractions of Central Australia such as Uluru and Kata-Tjuta.
For further information check out
Tourism NT for loads of useful information about the Simpson Desert and travelling around Central Australia.
About the author
Kylie-Jane Degeling is a freelance writer who has lived in Adelaide, Yulara (Uluru), Alice Springs and Canberra, as well as five different countries throughout the world. After backpacking around Australia, she worked as a tour guide in Central Australia, before training for her Commercial Pilot License and working as a flight instructor, scenic flight and charter pilot. She later worked as a travelling IT trainer for the Civil Aviation Safety Authority, which involved spending time in each of their 16 District Offices around the country on a rotating basis.
Having experienced Australia as a backpacker, tour guide, pilot and business traveller, Kylie now enjoys family holidays with her husband Alex, and children Jezzy and Jordan. She says, “I have been lucky to see Australia from a variety of perspectives, and as a travel writer can use this experience to inspire others to find holidays they would enjoy.” Kylie currently works as a travel writer in addition to being a government writer and columnist for two parenting magazines
Kylie Jane Degeling wrote this article
